INTRODUCTION
The
history of natural attars is very much associated to 
the
history of Kannauj. Kannauj has been known for natural attars
from the Mugal period or even earlier when aroma bearing substances
like Sandal, Musk, Comphor, Saffron were used as such (without
isolation of odorous principles) and the range of such materials
and essential oils were further enriched during 
the
Mugal period, when new plants were brought by the Mugals from
Central Asia to this country. This lead to the discovery and
development of process for the preparation of attar from Roses
by Noorjahan, the Mugal queen, This was the beginning of the
natural attars in India, which developed and progressed in and
around Kannauj and is quite strong even now. Floral Attars may
be defined as the distillates obtained by the hydro distillation
of flowers in Sandalwood Oil or other base materials like DOP,
DEP, Paraffin etc.
The
attars of Rose & Kewra are used as flavours in Indian sweets.
The main users of attars is in the Pan Masala and Chewing tobacco
industry. The two product also unique to India & consume
nearly 80% of all the attars manufactured.
All
the attars are used as perfumes by themselves. In India and
middle East, attars are made as offerings to the God.
There
are evidences in the history and Hindu sacred books ( Holy texts)
that perfumery tradition dates back to over 5000 years at the
time of Indus valley civilization as well when distillation
practice was reported to be in existence.
MANUFACTURING
PROCESS
The
attars are manufactured traditionally ‘Degs & Bhapka
system’, which is a hydro distillation
process. The still is heated form below by lighting a fire with
the help of wood or cow dung. The temperature and speed of the
distillations controlled by regulating the fire. The distillation
is managed by highly skilled/experience, workers called ‘Dighaa’.
He knows when the correct quantity of vapours have condensed
inside the receiver by feeling the round part of the receiver
under water. The 
water
in the tank is change continuously to prevent the temperature
rising too high. Managing the still is highly skilled job, as
the operator must keep the boiling in the still at a level that
matches the condensation in the receiver, in order to keep the
pressure under control. When the desire quantity of vapours
have condensed, the Dighaa rubs a wet cloth around the body
of the 
still
for a temporary pause in distillation and the filled receiver
is replaced by another receiver. If necessary, the second may
be replaced by a third receiver. The receiver is then allowed
to cool and may remain idle for one or two days depending on
the pressure of work. The mixture of oil and water is then separated
either directly form the receiver through a hole at the bottom
or 
pouring
the whole mixture in an open trough, After the oil and water
have separated into two layers, the water is removed from an
opening in the bottom, and the same is cohobated. The base material
remains in the receiver. After desired concentration of the
attar has been reached, then same is poured into leather bottles
for sedimentation and removal of moisture. Sometimes liquid
paraffin is used for the manufacture of cheaper attars. The
mouth of the receiver is sealed by wrapping coarse cloth around
the bamboo pipe and pushing it inside the condenser. The receiver
may contain up to 5-10 kilos of base materials and is kept in
a small water tank.
RAW
MATERIALS AND THEIR SOURCES
Base
Material :
Sandal
wood oil, Di-octyl Phthalate (DOP) & Liquid paraffin.
Floral
Material :
Flowers of Gulab, Kewra, Bela, Mehndi, Kadam, Chameli, Marigold,
Saffron & Maulshri.
Herb
& Spices :
A number of hersbs and spices are used in this industry which
includes Oakmoss, Sugandh mantri, Laurel berry, Juniper berry,
Cypriol, Indian valerian, Jatamansi, Hedychium spicatum, Daru
Haldi, Sugandha Bala, Sugandha Kokila, Kulanjan, Javitri/ Jaiphal,
Cardamom, Clove, Saffron, Ambergris & Musk.
The above materials are available in the different parts of
the country as :-
Sandal
Wood Oil : South India
Rose
: Aligarh (U.P.), Palampur (H.P.)
Kewra
: Ganjam (Orissa)Maulshri,
Jasmine, Marigold,chameli, Kadamb,Mehndi : Kannauj, U.P.
Spices
and herbs : North-East and Himalyan region South India,
Madhya Pradesh
Saffron
: Jammu & Kashmir
EQUIPMENTS
The
attar manufacturing for floral type takes place in remote places
because the flowers are required to be processed quickly after
plucking. The apparatus & equipment’s used for manufacture
of attar are light, flexible, easy to repair with a fair degree
of efficiency, keeping in view the above facts, the traditional
Deg & Bhapka process is being used for centuries and even
now
The
details of equipments are as follows :-
(i)
Deg or Still
The
process is carried out in copper stills called ‘ Degs’
as was done centuries ago. These are all direct fire heated
stills and their capacities can range from 10-160 kilos of floral/herbal
materials. The lid of the still is called ‘Sarpos and
is also made of copper having opening for connections to one
or two receivers.
(ii)
Bhapka or Receiver
One
of the peculiar features of attars distillation is that no separate
condenser is used. The unique odour of attars is obtained by
condensing vapours into the base material, mainly sandalwood
oil. The receiver is built of copper and is of round shape with
long neck, for case in connection with Deg via chonga. It is
known as Bhapka and it acts as condenser as well.
(iii)
Chonga or Bamboo Condenser
The
still and receiver are connected by a Chonga. This is a hollow
bamboo pipe wrapped with twine for insulation.
(iv)
Traditional Bhatti or Furnace
Normally
wood or coal is used for heating. Heat is controlled manually.
(v)
Gachchi or Cooling Water Tank
This
is the place where Bhapka, or receiver is kept and used for
cooling the distillate from Deg.
(vi)
Kuppi or Leather Bottle
These
are the bottle made from leather of animals. The reason for
making these bottle is their semi-permeability towards water.
It is used for removal of moisture from attars. The leather
allows water to move-out and attar to be remain, as such, thereby
separating the moisture from attar.
Copper
has been the main structural material for Deg and Bhapka because
it is malleable , good conductor of heat & easy to repair.
TYPES
OF ATTARS
The
attars may be broadly categorized into following types on the
basis of raw materials used.
Floral
Attars – Attars manufactured from single species
of flower are coming under this category. These are :-
(i)
Gulab ex Rosa damascena or Rosa Edword
(ii)
Kewra ex Pandanus odoratissimus
(iii)
Motia ex Jasminum sambac
(iv)
Gulhina ex lawsonia inermis
(v)
Chameli ex Jasminum grandiflorum
(vi)
Kadam ex Anthoephalus cadamba
Herbal
and Spicy Attar
Attar
manufactured from combination of floral, herbal & spicy
materials are coming under this category. Hina and its various
forms viz., Shamama, Shamam–tul–Amber, Musk Amber
and Musk Hina.
The
some attars which are neither floral nor herbal and are coming
under this category. Attar Mitti falls under this category and
is produced by distillation of baked earth over base material.
USES
The
Indian attars in the past has been utilized by elite class of
the society particularly kinds & queens on their body. With
the span of time kingdoms got abolished and hence the kings
& queens. But, attars industry got a new dimension form
the field of fragrance to flavour and now a days it is used
in the following areas.
1.
Pan Masala and Gutka is the largest consumer of Indian attars.
The reason for using it is it’s extraordinary tenacity
along with characteristic to withstand with tobacco note. The
attars used are rose, Kewra, Mehndi, Hina, Shamama, Mitti, Marigold
etc.
2.
Tobacco is relatively smaller segment for attar consumption
as compared to above industry. The attars used are mainly kewra
& Rose. Alongwith Pan masala & Gutkha it contributes
to more the 75% of attar consumption.
3.
Betlenet is relatively smaller segment for attar consumption
as compared to above two industry. The attars used are mainly
Kewra & Rose.
4.
It is used by people as a personal perfume, particularly by
Muslims due to absence of alcohol.
5.
Attars does have the application in pharmaceutical industry
too.
6.
Attars of Rose & Kewra are used in traditional Indian sweets
, for imparting flavour.
QUALITY
STANDARD
The
quality of Attars can be ensured by
i)
Controlling the qualities of raw material i.e. flowers &
base materials like sandalwood oil etc.
ii)
Standardization of process parameters.
The
BIS specification is available for the analysis of Sandalwood
oil. Most of the species which are used in the manufacturing
of Indian traditional fragrances for example Sugandh Mantri,
Sugandh Bala, Kapoor Kachri, Jatamansi, Nagarmotha, etc. have
no specification for their quality assessment.
The
quality of attars depends upon.
1.
The quality of flower
2. The time duration
between the plucking of flower and charging into the stills.
3.
The process parameters of distillation.
To
survive in the world market of fragrance & flavour, it is
necessary that attars should be of standard quality. Therefore,
their standardization is essential to sustain in the world market.
SOURCES
OF EQUIPMENT
The
equipemnts which are used in this industry are designed and
fabricated in and around Kannauj & Farrukhabad districts
of U.P. by the local fabricator. The equipments are easy to
be fabricated and are made of copper. They can be made by any
good fabricators after getting design from any authentic source.
INTERNATIONAL
& NATIONAL MARKET POTENTIAL :
The
attars does have a good market potential in Middle East countries
where they are using it due to absence of alcohol. Simultaneously,
if properly packaged and marketed in the name of natural fragrance
there does exists a market potential in other countries as well.
The attars can have a good market potential in international
market if consistency in quality and supply is ensured. They
can found a good use in high class fragrances, cosmetics and
even for aromatherapy.
As far as National market potential is concern, the prevailing
one is in Tobacco, Pan masala & Gutkha industry but, its
horizon of market can be widen if surety about quality and assurance
about consistency in supply could be made. It could found a
lot of use in herbal products and in aromatherapy. There also
exists a good potential if they are packaged in small packing
in marketed in attractive manner.
If, there national & international potential are properly
harnessed there, exists a good future for Indian natural fragrance
& attars.
CONCLUSION
Still
there is need to control the quality of attars by quantifying
the amount of odoriferous materials distilled over it and amount
of distillate it has received. But, till now no method has been
developed so far. This is an area where industry and R &
D institutions have to work together. If, it is done there is
no doubt that a bright future will be there for this traditional,
unique industry of Indian attar.
